30 December 2008

In search of Korean oolongs

I stopped by Korea on my way to Taiwan to attend a wedding. . . and for tea.  I emailed a few of the blog authors on my roll who have written about Korean tea and they recommended that I visit the cultural district of Insadong in Seoul to find some unique stuff.

I had a hard time finding a shop that (1) offered Korean Oolong (2) had staff that spoke enough English to communicate with me (3) offered tastings of their product.  But Insadong itself is a neat experience, close to museums, several palaces from past dynasties, old shops and restaurants.

                        insadong street 2

It's rather fitting that the shop I ended up spending the most time in was one that specialized in Chinese and Taiwanese oolongs.  Their shelves were full of puerh tongs, high mountain teas, and various metal and earthenware jars of aged oolongs.  Here, I finally got to taste Korean oolong and some good green tea.

korean tea in insadong - best korea green in blue A view of the teahouse's selection of pots and Korean greens - notice the model of Taipei 101 on the counter!

The oolong I tasted was very light, with some grain-like flavor notes.  Several of the Korean oolongs that I came across had the Chinese characters for Yellow Tea on the label, but none of the shopkeepers I spoke with could explain to me if all Korean oolongs were called Yellow Tea.  This particular tea reminded me of a mix between four seasons and barley tea; pleasant but no body or hui gan.  I didn't get deep enough into the conversation to ask what varietal the leaf was - I was just happy that this shopkeeper could speak enough English to accommodate me.  I eventually bought a box of her best green tea that came from a farm that she and her parents supervised the production for during the spring.  She brewed roughly 2-3 grams in a small Korean-style handled pot, using water that was probably around 160-170 degrees.  The tea was a pale yellow with a mellow mouth feel.  Only slight astringency, but I think it would turn out smoother in a gaiwan.  A very light floral fragrance unlike any Chinese or Taiwanese tea, but more vegetal in taste than floral.  In some ways, it reminded me of a mellow Longjing, but without the body or aftertaste, although this tea did have a smooth finish.

IMG_3181  Nice Korean green tea

I was told that while Insadong would be a convenient place for me to find some tea samples, it would be more expensive than other places.  I ended up picking up various other Korean oolongs from other shops along the way, but I have yet to try any of them since they didn't do sampling.


29 December 2008

Good tea dust may make an interesting blend

       tea bagsa selection of tea bags 

I'm not talking about the fancy tea bags made of high-quality cotton or silk which contain quality leaf.  I'm talking about regular tea bags that contain tea "dust" or broken up teas. 

I've spent the last several months collecting various types of tea bits and dust from processed oolongs of various types:  Alishan, Lishan, Baozhong, Jinxuan, Oriental Beauty, Dong Ding....  I've even collected the dust from several puerh cakes and quality black teas as well.  Using unbleached fiber tea bags, I've tasted teas from a single type of oolong, like just a Lishan teabag, and I've tasted blends of several teas.  My conclusion is generally the same:

No matter how good the tea is, its dust and bits aren't representative of the taste to the actual product

You may be saying, "well, duh!"  However, I found the leftovers from these high quality teas to be quite pleasant.

Tea dust can be found at the bottom of the bags/cans/boxes that teas are sold in, or they are found at the bottom of the pan or floor of a roasting machine.  Much of the dust is the result of the processing of the tea and has a distinctly different taste and aroma than the tea that is to be used for brewing. 

tea dust which teas are in here?

The tea bits that I used were broken pieces of product.  Baozhong, for example, is fairly brittle and long in shape, so it's easy to crush and break into pieces. 

broken baozhongbroken-up Baozhong

Many people can appreciate the convenience of a tea bag.  Because dust from several different teas may all be mixed together to produce a tea bag, it's not always easy to discern exactly what type of tea one is having when drinking from a generic green/oolong/black tea bag.

The next time you buy a big bag of tea, save the dust and put it into a cloth filter (even a coffee filter will work).  It's not the same as the tea itself, but it may be an interesting blend and will probably taste better than what you get at the restaurants. 

23 December 2008

A fine Winter brew

       Frozen palms  A frozen palm tree in Seattle

It's cold up here and we're getting lots of snow dumped on us; there hasn't been a winter storm like this for over 10 years.

Stuck at home, but glad I've got a lot of nice teas to drink.  I received some tea samples from a tea friend in California and they reminded me that something dark and malty would feel nice on a cold day, as I watch the snow fall and I get more anxious about how I'll get to work tomorrow.


Another tea friend left some factory floor puerh of unknown age to try.  I'm not a big drinker of puerh - it's nice once in a while - but I don't crave it like I do a good roasted oolong.  On a chilly day when you can feel the cold seep through the windows and into your bones, like today, it's a welcomed brew.  Creamy and rich, with the full-body and smoothness that only age can produce.  A depth of flavors that's not quite perfect like a famous, aged cake, but a variety of flavors that blend well together, like a smoothie blended with different earthy flavors of mushroom, dried herbs, bark and some citrus flavor notes too.

Winter continues to roll in.  With my cup and brew in hand, the cold world seems farther away.

Life is good.  Drink good tea and enrich your life.

17 December 2008

Mid-Season's Greetings

...and Happy Holidays!

What better way to symbolize the wonder of the season than with this tea wreath. 

After a particularly long session of sampling various good oolongs, I was left with a giant pile of leaves to play with.  I thought it'd be fitting to create a nice holiday wreath with it, which is punctuated by the mellow green leaves of infused green tea.

                         tea wreath - edited

Take care of yourselves and stay warm this winter.

13 December 2008

What is wrong with Taiwan's tea this season?

I've had some Baozhong (1st, 2nd and Honorable mention - one crop of winners among many) and some Alishan from this season.  The award-winning Baozhongs taste light and clean - like the winners from past seasons - but not quite as full-bodied and round.  The Alishans I've tried lack the body, fragrance and aroma that I've had from the same producer in the past.  It tasted more like a Four Seasons varietal - flatter and greener than I expected.


I spoke with some producers of Four Seasons, Lishan and Tieguanyin in Taiwan and they all told me that the weather has been too warm and a bit too wet to produce outstanding tea.  In one of the emails I received from a tea farmer friend in Muzha, she described the season as typical of "暖冬" or warm winter.  I haven't gotten all of the details about what the particular characteristics of a warm winter are, but I'll write more about it in a few weeks when I sit down with the producers.

So for now, all I can say is that the teas I've had fall short of my hope for an outstanding taste like I've had several seasons ago, but I've got hope that there could be some great stuff out there. A friend whose family produces award-winning Lishan tea had them express-mail some samples that should arrive shortly.  I'm crossing my fingers that this may be something good!

12 December 2008

Does the color of your porcelain tea cup matter?

Porcelain tea cups come in a variety of colors and glazes. Some are bright shades of the primary colors, some are subdued earth tones. Others have patterns and texture as well.

I personally like a thin celadon pottery that is light green in color. I like delicate cups that have wide lips, helping the tea to cool before I sip it. 

      celadon cups

When at a tasting, though, it's nice to have a cup with a white interior. This allows for better viewing of the tea's color. A quality, fresh and lightly-oxidized oolong tea shouldn't be muddy looking, and a fresh Longjing should be a soft green. Color is just one measure of a particular tea's quality, but it can tell you something about the tea before it even touches your mouth.

Drink good tea and enrich your life.

07 December 2008

Processing Oolong

In preparation for my trip to Asia this winter, I'm reading as much as I can about the processing of Oolong.  The basics are in many tea books, English and Chinese, but I want to get into the nitty-gritty of it from people that have actually done it before.  Particularly difficult to find are first-person accounts of processing written in English that can be easily-shared on this blog.

I came across a pretty detailed account of Baozhong processing on the blog for Red Circle Tea based in San Francisco.  You may read more about the processing for Baozhong here:

           Red Circle's Baozhong Processing Feature

The first oolong I've ever seen produced was Taiwanese Tieguanyin.  Before I can start making it with the masters, though, I'll begin with Four Seasons Tea this winter.  It's a light roast that shouldn't take more than a day to complete after the tea leaves have been oxidized.

                  dong ding tasting

Baozhong tea is one that used to be among my favorites.  It has, over the last decade though, gotten greener and less oxidized, to the point that I find it too fresh and green for an oolong.  The prize-winning Baozhongs are exceptionally green and fresh - the leaves are a beautiful jade color and the tea liquid infuses into a light brew with a greenish hue.  This is the trend and the experts and consumers seem to enjoy it.  However, Floating Leaves' Baozhong farmer prefers a more oxidized and roasted Baozhong himself and will agree to make a special batch of it if so requested.  The only problem is that he has quite a large minimum order for production.  I hope that maybe a few teahouses can get together and split the minimum order so that I can taste the wonderful, full-bodied Baozhong that I used to love.

04 December 2008

Finally understanding one of my first tea teacher's words

He speaks melodically, with a cadence that reminds me of a poet reciting a favorite verse. An accomplished man of the arts, Tano Maeda was one of my first tea teachers.

Tano is a Buddhist filmmaker and the director of the International Buddhist Film Festival. Last I heard, he was also the director of the Tea Arts Institute in the SF Bay Area. I met him through Winnie (of Teance in Berkeley) and he taught me about Green teas, corrected my brewing method, and tried to instill in me a sense of peace and calm in my pace - something that I'm still working on.

When I think of him, I usually recall how he had - on a few occasions - casually mentioned to me that he traded in some luxuries and a closet full of Armani suits to do something that he is passionate about. I was too green at the time to understand and wrote off his statements as either indirect boasting or just the same old story I've heard from him before.

But I think I get it now. I've been trading in some of my material items and replacing them with the beautiful experiences in life.

green lake 1

                         So far, so good.

Drink good tea and enrich your life.

02 December 2008

Is aged tea ware always better?

More learning from Daniel at Arts de Chine

In Daniel's collection are some Qing dynasty brewing vessels, like gaiwan and teapots, as well as some Ming dynasty porcelain. The distinctive cobalt glaze of the Ming dynasty that has been so widely duplicated is a popular design for tea ware.

Both Daniel and I believe that the usage of different clay teapots will enhance the tea that is brewed within it. But is the same true for an antique vs. a modern gaiwan?

Per Daniel, antique gaiwans have porcelain that is mixed and made by hand, molds that are hand-made and a product that is fired at less consistent temperatures than the machines that make porcelain today. Because of these and several other factors that he explained, the porosity of the ancient porcelain should be greater.

Modern gaiwan are largely made by machines that pound the raw materials into the powder/paste that will then be molded into the final product. Not only do the machines create finer and more consistent "mash," but the usage of modern technology allows for higher firing temperatures and more consistent thickness. Consistent density of good porcelain products should be easier to achieve with modern machinery.

celadon tea ware set

Daniel told me that he had a friend and fellow tea lover that believed that he could tell the difference between not only tea that is brewed in an antique vs. a modern gaiwan, but also the taste of tea that is simply placed in an ancient vs. a modern porcelain tea cup. Porcelain here is the central argument, as there can be some taste differences if you put tea in a porcelain, metal, plastic or clay cup. After much experimentation and blind tasting, the result was that his expert friend - as Daniel had already guessed - could not pick out the difference.

Porosity is important for teapots, since this quality can, among other things, help round out an especially harsh tea. Among its many names, gaiwans are known in Cantonese as a "steaming pot," its primary purpose to trap heat for delicate brews, such as less-oxidized teas. Thus, I believe that higher porosity, as in the case of antique porcelain, may not be a favorable trait for gaiwans as it may be for clay pots.

So does a significant difference in taste exist? Perhaps, but if the experts can't spot the difference with any level of consistency, then the difference is not significant enough for me to necessitate usage of antique porcelain.

My bottom line is that a nice Qing-dynasty gaiwan may cost you $1000. A nice modern gaiwan may cost you $20. Without being able to conclusively say that the old gaiwan significantly enhances the taste of a good tea, I'd opt to spend the difference between the two on some good tea. The beauty of an aged Wuyi tea vs. a grocery store tea bag - now that's enough of a difference for me to care. Antique collectors will definitely disagree with me, but like I've said all along, I just like tea.

Drink good tea and enrich your life.

30 November 2008

My Teapot priming method - Part 2

In the past, I had simply put hot water into a teapot, scrubbed it with a brush, then boiled it with tea leaves and let it air dry. That took about an hour. Daniel's process will take more than five hours, but he is a devoted lover of teapots and tea culture and his procedure is the result of his experience.

I ended up using a shortcut method that took about 3-4 hours. My method uses less time for boiling and substitutes baking soda for the effervescent tablets. The concern I have about baking soda is that it contains a fair amount of sodium that can impart flavor to the pot, so I use the product sparingly.

1) Soak teapot and lid in hot water.
2) Use Sonicare and baking soda to scrub the teapot and lid.
3) Rinse teapot and lid.
4) Place teapot and lid on top of a towel in a pot of water and bring to a boil. Add baking soda. Reduce to a simmer for an hour.
5) Dump the water and rinse the teapot. Use Sonicare and baking soda to thoroughly clean the teapot again.
6) Place teapot and lid on top of a towel in a pot of water and bring to a boil again. Reduce to a simmer for 30-60 minutes. This step is meant to remove any baking soda taste from the teapot.
7) Dump the water and rinse the teapot.
8) For the 3rd time, place teapot and lid on top of a towel in a pot of water. Add in a handful or two of good tea leaves and bring to a boil for about an hour.
9) Dump the water and rinse the teapot well. Let it dry for a day or two. Begin brewing with good tea.
teapot - done Drink good tea and enrich your life

28 November 2008

The Teapot priming method - Part 1

I was at Vancouver's Arts de Chine last weekend. Its proprietor, Daniel, is a tea guy that knows quite a bit about Chinese arts and teaware. I bought a yixing teapot made from Zhuni clay, probably about 20 or so years old, and he taught me how to correctly prep it for use. His procedure is by far the longest that I've ever heard about, but it's worthwhile for a serious tea lover looking for a better brew. His instructions have been posted here as intact as I can recall. I did an abridged version of his cleansing procedure that I believe achieves a similar level of cleaning with no harsh chemicals and less time; my procedure is outlined in Part 2.

The first step is to take hot water and fill the pot, placing the lid on top and pouring water all over the exterior. Let this sit for a few minutes.

toothbrush and paste I used a Sonicare

Next, take a toothbrush and toothpaste and scrub the teapot well inside and out. Take a thin chopstick or skewer and move it around the spout area to dislodge any dirt. Then take a kitchen pot and place a small towel on the bottom, on top of which you'll place the teapot and the lid. Fill with enough water to cover past the top of the teapot, but leave at least 2 or 3 inches of space from the top edge of the pot.

pots in boiling water 
Bring the water to a boil and then reduce. Now add 8-10 tablets of effervescent denture cleaner. They come in tablets and can be found at many drugstores. Strange? I thought so too, but it does make some sense. Good pots are porous and effervescent products are like cleaning bubbles. If you'd like to make a substitution during this cleaning phase, that should be ok. I'd rather use a milder cleanser, like pure baking soda.

If you choose to go with the cleanser, let the pot simmer with the tabs for an hour or two before pouring out. Rinse the pot and teapot with warm water. Put the towel, teapot and lid back into the pot and fill with water. Bring to a boil and let it slow boil for a few hours. This step is meant to remove any leftover taste from the tablet cleanser process. Pour the water out and rinse everything with warm water again.

tea and pot
For the 3rd time, bring the pot of water with the towel, teapot and lid inside of it to a boil. Add a handful of quality leaf, the kind of tea that you intend to use in the pot. I'll use an aged tea for this process. Leave the teapot in and boil it for another hour or two.

After this, remove the teapot, rinse, and then use a toothbrush and toothpaste to clean it thoroughly again.
Once this process has been completed, you'll have a blank-slate teapot. Daniel mentioned that it may take 8-10+ pots of tea before the teapot starts to take on the correct brewing characteristics for that tea.

24 November 2008

Silently testing your tastebuds

tea testing

I sit at the edge of the tea table as I've done many times before. A friend is at my side and the teahouse's owner sits opposite me warming the cups. A small dish is passed around with the tea leaves - an invitation to inspect what we're about taste. Small talk ensues, but the focus is really just on the tea.

And probably me, too.

Having been to many teahouses, it doesn't matter whether I sit down to have tea with the owner or a tea expert/connoisseur, the experience tends to be the same. I'm invited to have a seat and I'm introduced as a knowledgeable tea guy. I will proceed to correct that statement by introducing myself as just a tea lover, never calling myself a tea expert.

shiuwen edited 

The server will sometimes ask what I'd like to drink or they may just serve whatever they feel like. Seldom will the first pot be their best tea. The server watches me as I inspect the leaves. I smell the brewing vessel after the leaves have been rinsed and he will notice what I look at and what expressions my arched brows may reveal. As he brews infusion after infusion, he will watch me as I glance at the color, as I taste and coat my tongue with the liquid, and as I wait for the recurring flavors. He wants to see if I know what I'm tasting, and then after a couple of cups, he'll ask me what I think.

It's rude to say the tea's inferior to the tea's buyer or maker, but I once told a famous tea maker that he wasn't serving me the quality of tea that that he was known for. He smirked, got up and left without any utterance, and returned with a different brewing vessel and a heaping serving of jade-colored leaves. Once the rinse water was poured in and out, I looked at him and smiled. He finally laughed to break an otherwise tense silence, nodded, and said that my tastes weren't bad.

That, in Chinese, means that he thinks they're good.

I believe it's natural for people to test a fellow tea lover's tastes. They want to know what product they can direct you towards, get a feeling for your level of tea tasting & knowledge, and lastly, they probably don't want to brew you a tea that you won't like.

We're all nice people and if we cross paths and I make you tea, it won't be anything but the good stuff that we would enjoy having.

Drink good tea and enrich your life.

21 November 2008

Revealing the whereabouts of the Magic Well


Naturally-filtered artesian water.  Rain and moisture that permeates many layers of sand, rock and gravel - nature's Brita filter - picking up minerals along the way.  The taste is crisp and sweet.  Nature's filtration system adds pleasant flavors, unlike a commercial water filter that is meant to remove tastes from water. 

Did I mention that it's free?

Go to Lynnwood and follow 164th St SW West of the I-5.  Go down the hill and look to your right for a gravel parking lot with a small, covered structure.  That is the well.

The water is monitored and tested by the Alderwood Water District.  You can find out more information about it here:

Try some blind taste tests of the same tea brewed with different waters to see if you can detect a difference.  The easiest way to be consistent is to take several bowls, each with a specified amount of tea leaves, and then add the same amount of hot water to each bowl.  In several experiments, tea friends picked bottled spring waters and this well water-brewed teas over tap or Brita water-brewed teas.

There isn't a lot of information about this site anywhere; it's one of those things that people-in-the-know just know about and keep to themselves and their friends.  Although a bit reluctant to share this source and add to the already long lines, I think it's more important that I contribute to the pool of tea knowledge by revealing what I know that may help you to produce a better cup of tea.  That is, after-all, in keeping with the spirit of my writings.

Experiment with your equipment, your water, leaf amounts, brewing times/conditions....  It's through exploration that we can continue to add meaningful discoveries to the body of tea knowledge.

13 November 2008

The only green tea I love

Although I write mostly about oolongs, there was a period of about a year where all I really wanted to drink was green tea.  Through personal purchases and gifts from friends, I had amassed an assortment of fine green teas, including Long Jing, Sulloc Green from Korea and Gyokuro from Japan. 

But my favorite green tea is Bi Luo Chun.  It's a delicate tea with a sophisticated flavor profile that is clean and smooth on the tongue, radiating aromas that are smoky, fruity and floral.  Its dry leaves have a unique appearance, like hairy little critters, contributing to its name that translates as "green spring snail."

I've read many stories about this tea's background and I think the Wikipedia article sums it up rather succinctly.  For reasons that would cause many a tea friend to blush, I've posted the link to the article below for you to read at your leisure.
Bi Luo Chun is a tea that is produced in very limited quantities.  Like many other precious, premium-grade teas, production of Bi Luo Chun has been expanded outside of China's Jiangsu province, to Zhejiang and Sichuan provinces, as well as to Taiwan.
I had my first excellent cup of Bi Luo Chun about 11 years ago.  My father received a small can of it from a Chinese consular representative that he had met.  At the time, I had already tried several Bi Luo Chuns, but had never had anything that was a real stand-out.  I later learned that the product's limited production and the region's climate and pollution issues resulted in irregular product.
Some competition-grade teas, like the Bi Luo Chun, come in small, cylindrical cans
I can remember taking the top off of my father's gift, the "hiss" as the air entered the can simultaneously inflating the fluffy buds of the tea and releasing its slightly sour but pleasant aroma. 
Green tea is much more delicate than the the Tieguanyins and Dong Dings that I grew up drinking.  Those teas are robust and can handle a variation of brewing times and water temperature.  Green teas cannot.  Leaves that have been scorched by water that is too hot will brew tea that has an unbalanced flavor and high astringency.  The result:  toss the leaves and start over
This can was amazing.  It is still the best example of Bi Luo Chun that I have ever tasted.  Light flavors coupled with an irresistible fragrance.  A lingering aftertaste of floral notes that returns from your belly with every breath, not with the throat-sweeness of "hui gan," but with a perfumed fragrance.
I had found the first and only green tea that I would ever love.
Over the years, I tried dozens more Bi Luo Chuns from tea stores in the US, China, and Hong Kong, but failed to find another acceptable product. That is, until a tea friend brought me to New Century Tea in Seattle's Chinatown about 2 years ago.
Dafe and Grace at New Century specialize in mainland Chinese teas.  Brought there by a tea friend, I took a chance and requested a sample of Bi Luo Chun.  With great generosity, Grace popped open a can sitting next to her tea table, scooped it into a Gaiwan and poured in the rinse water.  I immediately knew that it was my lucky day.  The aroma was enchanting, like a first-love that visits your dreams.  The tea was reminiscent of the amazing can I had nearly a decade before. 
Six infusions later, the flavors still danced in my stomach and revisited my nose with every exhalation.  Beautiful.  Ever since, I've tried New Century's Bi Luo Chun when it arrives every spring. 

09 November 2008

NO bug eggs here: clarifying the source of Oriental Beauty's sweetness

Oriental Beauty/Bai Hao oolong comes primarily from Taiwan's Hsinchu area, about an hour south of Taipei.  It's unique among oolongs in that it has an especially sweet taste, often described as honey-like, and the leaves range in color from whitish to dark-brown.

A close-up of Oriental Beauty leaves from my collection
I can't remember exactly when or from whom I first heard it from, but there was the rumor that Oriental Beauty derived its sweetness from the eggs of insects that laid them only on the leaves of this type of tea.  After having heard this seemingly-absurd statement several times and even seeing this statement pop up online, I went to the source to find out the truth.
Hsinchu is the "Silicon Valley" of Taiwan.  You'll find many high-tech companies here, including some of the world's largest semicondutor manufacturing companies.  When it comes to edible products, the city is known primarily for two things:  rice noodles and Oriental Beauty tea.
I first asked the tea wholesaler Mr. Hong in Taipei about Bai Hao.  He responded as most tea experts would:  Oriental Beauty's sweetness is the product of a chemical reaction resulting from the mix of the tea leaf's juices and the insect's saliva.  He had never heard of the story about bug eggs being rolled in with the leaves - he thought that sounded totally disgusting.
Coincidentally, I made some new friends that were from Hsinchu when I was in Taipei, and they took me down to their city for a tour.  We stopped by a small teastore and I had the chance to ask the teamaker about the source of his Bai Hao's sweetness.  His explanation was similar to Mr. Hong's, but he added that while it was entirely possible that bugs laid eggs on tea plants, that was most definitely neither common nor the source of the tea's distinctive flavor.
The word of two experts and a host of articles that corrobated their stories should have been enough to put the rumor to rest.  However, I decided to take a closer look at the tea and see if my naked eye could detect any sign of eggs (Yes, I know, they are most likely microscopic). 
It may not be entirely clear from the pictures above, but none of the leaves showed any sign of insect parts/eggs.  On the above-left picture, I brewed the tea in a clear bowl and looked for any eggs or small objects that would detach from the leaves and either float to the top or sink to the bottom - no such things were found.  An examination of the tea leaves showed no eggs either.
However, I did notice that the shape of the Bai Hao leaves are more rounded.  I believe that this is due to the insects nibbling on the edges of the leaf, producing the reaction that results in the tea's flavor.  Below is a picture comparing a Bai Hao leaf to a leaf from a high mountain tea.
Notice how smooth the edges of the Bai Hao Leaf on the left looks compared to the jagged little edges of the high mountain leaf. 
There's a saying that Cantonese people will eat everything that flies except airplanes, and everything with four legs except tables and chairs.  Although the old saying applies to me too - with some exceptions - I can DEFINITELY do without bug eggs in my tea.

04 November 2008

POLICY - Usage of my material

I consider myself to be pretty generous.  All of the tea knowledge that I have and continue to accumulate I intend to disseminate for the benefit of tea lovers everywhere.

With that said, much of my material and learning, especially my pictures, are quite dear to me.  I have no problem with sharing my intellectual/literary/photographic property, but please adhere to the moral and ethical code when using my materials. 

Please first send me an email or a comment to let me know what, where, and for what purpose you will use my material, and then please cite the source in your work.  I will respond to you shortly with approval.  In general, I will have no problem with you using my materials, but there are cases, such as commercializing my work or using it in obscene ways, that I would like to have clarification and give approval for.  I'm not asking for money, fame or your soul, just a heads-up and recognition.



A complete set - looking at unfurled oolong tea leaves

When people say that a proper oolong should have 2 or 3 leaves and a bud, what do they mean and what should it look like?

For an oolong tea, specifically a high mountain ooong tea, the tea bud is basically the baby leaf.  In Chinese, it's called the "xin" or heart.  For white teas, the bud is very light/white colored, often with "fuzz" on it.  Green tea buds may or may not have the fuzz; Bi Luo Chun's buds do.

Below is an example of an oolong that has what I refer to as the complete set.  In the picture below, the leaves are from a Taiwanese Lishan high mountain tea.

Due to the delicate nature of the bud, it sometimes gets torn off or falls off during the drying, rolling or roasting process.  It may also come off during the brewing process. 

The picture below shows an open leaf set from an Alishan high mountain oolong that is missing its bud leaf.  It otherwise has the 2 or 3 leaves, nice color, good leaf shape & texture and the characteristics of a quality high mountain oolong. 

Below is a picture of a lower-grade high-mountain Chin Shin (or Qingxin) oolong varietal from my tea collection that was grown in SE Asia.  Notice the irregularity of the leaf shape, holes in the leaf, the missing leaves and the large stem.  Per the packaging, this tea was produced in the Fall/Winter of 2007.
Unlike many other blogs out there, my pictures are simple and non-artistic, but they illustrate my point.  A tea friend, Brian Glanz, has excellent pictures of, well, pretty much everything, on his site.  Do check him out here:
Brian's wife, Mohini, has a cool site called Mango Power Girl that has good recipes and beautiful food pictures.
As I've mentioned before, not all oolongs have the leaf set I've described.  Traditional Tieguanyin, for example, may not.  It is roasted fairly heavily and handled pretty roughly and the leaves tend to be separated.  Baozhong is another example - the tea isn't even rolled into a ball like many oolongs. 

03 November 2008

My Tea language - the tea experience

    Beautiful Maokong Valley
This is Part II of my tea terms, dealing mostly with how I describe the experience of tea tasting.


-Body: A tea has body when it feels substantial to the taste buds and has substantive flavor, vs. just fragrance and some taste.

-Round/roundness: A tea that is balanced and exhibits the characteristic flavors of that particular type of tea.

-Aromatic/Fragrant: It smells nice. Floral, fruity, smoky, roasted, nutty, grassy, and vegetal are common aromas. Delicate fragrances are good to have and would represent one aspect of a quality tea.

-Has a bite to it: This can mean the tea is astringent and/or is very full-bodied. Astringency can be a good or bad thing. Some excellent green puerhs are astringent and have quite a bite, but will soften over time. Some old teas that may not be very tasty can have quite a bitter bite.

-Mouth feel: This refers to how the liquid from a brew feels in your mouth. Some, like a bad cooked puerh, can have a malty and unsatisfyingly thick texture. A good Bi Luo Chun green tea, on the other hand, may feel light and smooth. A fine Tieguanyin can be round, full, deep, rich and feel weighty in the mouth because it has so much body.

-Incomplete: I usually use this when I refer to a roasted tea. The roasting process of an oolong, or the frying/drying process of a green tea, are vitally important for shaping the end-result of the tea's flavor. Sometimes the roasting isn't quite there and a great tea may not live up to its potential when brewed.

-Stale: Teas that have started to change - quite noticeably - in fragrance and taste: AKA, it's getting older. Improper storage can greatly affect the speed at which this happens. Stale oolongs may exhibit a very strong fruit/plum smell, but it's possible to save a stale tea with a proper re-roast.

-Goat milk taste: A taste that I experience with lighter-roasted teas that have (A) not been brewed by water that's at the right temperature or (B) has been brewed the full number of brews and has lost flavor. Goat milk is a bit sour and slightly gamy, like goat meat. This taste doesn't automatically mean that a tea is bad - I've experienced it with excellent Alishan teas that were brewed past their number of brews and lost flavor.

-Earthy: Usually used to describe puerh tea. It's a diplomatic way for me to say that it tastes like dirt. Not necessarily a bad thing, as good puerhs are deep and rich. Many good mushrooms taste earthy too, and I love mushrooms.

-Aged (Chinese medicinal, aged "sour"): Many aged oolong teas have a woody, earthy smell and taste, reminiscent of Chinese medicine. I have in fact bought tea several years ago from a retailer that doubles as a Chinese herbal shop and thought that he may have mixed his prized oolongs with some herbs by accident. He was gracious enough to enlighten me about the process and I have subsequently found that many aged oolongs do indeed have this particular flavor profile. Some aged oolongs also have a slightly sour taste to them as well. Not sour like lemons, though, more like a preserved fruit rind.

-More: The tea tastes good and I like it. More, please!

Pretty simple, just tell it like it is. If you've got some useful terms for tea too, feel free to comment. I'll mostly be using English descriptions when I describe tea, but I'll occassionally use Chinese words when I can't think of an appropriate translation. Do ask if I don't make my thoughts clear.

02 November 2008

My Tea language - tea leaf terms

Different types of puerh tea - one from a broken-up cake, one from an old tea tree
I take a "live and let live" philosophy to tea. Although it can be hard to find the good in all teas, I can usually find something nice to say, like "at least that jasmine green tea was green. . .ish." In short, I appreciate that there are many ways to enjoy tea, and to each their own.

Chinese phrases that I commonly use to describe tea include:

-Hui Gan - the delightful occurrence of returning sweetness (usually starting in the throat) after drinking a nice oolong tea
-Hui Wei - the aftertaste - should be clean and not astringent
-Se - astringency of the tea as sensed by the tongue. Generally not a good thing to have
-Huo Qi - a phrase that I use to describe the "fire energy" of a roasted tea. You'll find that I like to talk about the energy of tea. If it doesn't make sense, don't fret, I might be tea crazy

Describing fine oolongs with English words is not so easy. With the lack of descriptive translations in English, many tea lovers turn to using wine terms. There are some similarities between tea and wine. They can both be expensive, they're both liquids, they have legions of lovers, and they can be delicious.

I'm not upset by or critical of people that use terms like tea sommelier or tea liquor. However, these are misnomers, as the term sommelier doesn't apply to tea and tea is not a liquor. It's my hope that tea will stand apart on its own and have its own vocabulary of interesting terms.

I'd like to use this post to describe some common English phrases that I'll be using when I talk about the stuff we love. Many terms and their definitions are wholly of my own creation; I don't intend to be a "Dictionary" of tea terms. I support people using terms to describe the tea experience that they feel make sense to them, so if someone tells me that my aged puerh cake takes like mud, that's completely fine. If there's a term that I use that doesn't make sense or doesn't sit well with you, don't sweat it, you're welcome to think of a descriptor that you find more appropriate - please do share though!

To keep this post to a suitable size, I'll be talking about my common tea terms for the leaves. In the next installment, I'll talk more about the tea tasting experience. While I do borrow terms from the appreciation of food/wine/gadgets/beautiful people, I try not to use words that I feel inaccurately describe tea, such as "tea liquor." In describing the taste of teas, my descriptions can be strange, like "goat-milky" or "soapy." If you're curious about what such sensations are really like, come have tea with me. If after that you still don't quite get it, please refer to my following disclosure:

"Rich drinks a lot of tea. All opinions expressed in this blog are his own, and if they make no sense to you at times, don't worry about it, he probably just had too much tea and his head is in the clouds."

And now for some of my terms:

-The complete set: Refers to a high mountain tea with a bud and 2 or 3 leaves that appear to be hand-picked. One of several indicators that the tea is of a higher quality.

-Red-trimmed: Many varieties of Taiwanese high mountain tea, such as Lishan and Shanlinxi, have nice, green leaves that have a slight reddish tint to its edge. This is a sign of good oxidization in these types of teas. However, some great teas do not have this; it's again, just one indicator of the tea's quality.

-Whole: The tea is intact and resembles a leaf. Many lower-quality teas are picked using less-skilled laborers or machines, both of which may break apart the leaves as they collect them.

-Stemmy: Too much stem can be a sign of a lower-grade tea or poor picking. Stems have a different flavor than leaves and I have seen oolong farmers pick out the stems of their product before tea competitions. Stem-only tea is pleasant in its own way.

-Good color: Fresh, lightly-roasted oolongs should be quite green. I've found that some inferior grades of oolongs have substantial yellowing, spotted leaves, or appear grayish. Off-colors can be indicative of an inferior product, or just one that's not so fresh anymore. Medium to heavily-roasted oolongs are tan in color, and the tea they brew is also quite a bit darker. There are exceptions, though, like Oriental Beauty/Bai Hao.

30 October 2008

There's a lot of good tea out there

My duty as the one of the tea-buying guys this coming season is simple: find the teas that best represent the exceptional flavor profile that customers have come to anticipate.

I love a great tea that represents a solid value, and I want people to recognize that immense effort and care went into the production and selection of the products that they drink. To this end, I am singularly dedicated to the wonderful tea experience that tea friends - old and new - will receive.
I try many tea samples that are brought in from all over the world. I also travel a lot and make it a point to try new brews. With all of the good tea out there, I'm happy to see that the market for premium teas is expanding in America. I'm also very excited when I meet teahouse owners that are passionate about their teas, such as the owners of Red Blossom Tea in San Francisco. Hou De teas in Houston is another fantastic retailer. They've got some solid teas and a wealth of information on their blog.
I'll mainly be looking for well-crafted Tieguanyin and Dong Ding teas, and traveling to Shanlinxi to look for a good example of that tea as well. It's going to be quite an adventure!
I support the mission of honest tea retailers that are passionate about a great brew. Look for my tasting notes for the products that I'll be buying, as well as live trip notes.

27 October 2008

My first Tea-loves

Splat. Dribble..dribble..dribble.


When I think of my very first memories of fine tea, these sounds are what come to mind. A sip of hot Anxi Tieguanyin flew out of my mouth, splashing the marble-topped dining room table before proceeding to drip sloppily onto the floor. Amused chuckles followed as I decided that I'd rather drink a Coke that day.

My dad's good friend was a tea lover from the Chaozhou region of Guangdong province, an area known for sharp businesspeople and strongly-brewed gongfu-style oolong tea. Barely a teenager, I was just about as fond of my first sip of real gongfu tea as most people are of their first sip of vodka.

Strong, dark and bitter. I couldn't figure out why adults tortured themselves by drinking such beverages, smiling as if they could possibly enjoy them. I wouldn't learn their secret until years later, when I'd come to appreciate good examples of both.

My dad's tea friends didn't come over too often when I was a youngin', but my father never seemed to mind that I would join them for a chat. My dad wasn't - and still isn't - a tea lover, but he indulged in the process; the offering of tea to guests just like a kind host would offer up a glass of iced lemonade on a beautiful summer day. It was the process and simple ceremonies of tea that I first fell in love with. I came to associate having tea with philosophical discussions, laughter and happy experiences with friends. Back in the day, we usually drank Tieguanyin from Anxi. It was the brew of choice of my dad's friends and we always had at least one box of it in the tea cabinet above the rice cooker. Those were the days when premium oolongs were all handmade and hand-roasted with charcoal, with deep and rich flavors.

It wasn't until high school that my interest in tea propelled me to seek out new leaves outside of the Tieguanyin and ordinary greens at home. After weekend tennis practices, I'd occasionally stop by Chinatown and pick up some loose-leaf teas from the Ten Ren store there. King's tea, Dong Ding, and Jasmine; those were my usuals. To me, there was no world of tea outside of Ten Ren.

A Tieguanyin tastng in Taiwan - flight #1

I often drank tea with friends in college, especially during my later years there, and my friends would occasionally bring samples from their parents' special stashes. But it wasn't until my senior year, when I started working at Celadon Fine Teas (now Teance), that I received my formal tea training. I saw all of the varieties outside of my usual 1/2 dozen teas, learned how to grade & taste the expensive stuff, and how NOT to spit out puerh, even when I thought it tasted like mud. To this day, I still brew with a Gaiwan the same way that I learned to nearly 10 years ago, and I still love a finely-roasted Tieguanyin or Dong Ding above all other teas.

Just as a first love is ingrained in most people's memories, so too are my first tea-loves. Tieguanyin, with it's floral, fruity and multiple layers of flavor, and Dong Ding, with it's beautiful bouquet and balanced roasting, are still my favorites. I've had hundreds of teas in my lifetime, but the beautiful taste of a well-crafted oolong will still be what I'll always crave.

25 October 2008

Where in Taiwan is it made?

If you've been drinking Taiwanese oolong long enough, you've probably wondered where the tea comes from. Alishan, Shanlinxi, Pinglin...where are these places?

In consultation with Shiuwen at Floating Leaves Tea, I took a freely-available NASA satellite map of Taiwan and added in the major tea-growing regions in Taiwan. The map below is our approximation of the major tea-growing regions.

Click on the image for a larger version that is easier to read

There are several different teas that I did not include on the map because they may be produced in several different areas. Jinxuan/Jinshuan, for example, is made in several areas including Pinglin, Nantou and Alishan. Some other teas that I did not put on the map for the same reason I just mentioned include Four Seasons tea (Si Ji Chun) and Cui Yu (also known as Jade Oolong).

24 October 2008

This is the place where my tea thoughts will reside

I was born with what many friends have described as "an old soul," and I take an interest in subjects that deal with passion, appreciation, and which can add to the peace and joy in my life. Having been enchanted by tea for more than 10 years, Cha Dao has been my most enduring interest.

In my life with tea thus far, I've been fortunate enough to have had great mentors and tea friends. My dad's dear friend Mr. Chu gave me my first memories of fine oolong teas. Winnie Yu of Teance Teas in Berkeley played the most influential role in my development into a true tea lover. I worked with her when she opened her teahouse nearly 10 years ago, and she patiently helped me to build my foundation for tea knowledge. Shiuwen Tai of Floating Leaves Tea in Seattle has, for the last 2 years, been exceedingly generous with her time in teaching me so much about high mountain teas and Taiwanese tea culture.

Mr. Zhou and his wife have used their precious time to teach me to see beyond the realm of the five senses and to tap into the deeper philosophical and energetic levels of tea. Their aged Dong Ding is the finest example of that varietal that I have ever tasted. The Zhangs have been gracious and generous in teaching me about roasted oolongs, and my good fortune will continue this winter when they teach me to produce their seasonal product.

And to the many other tea friends and mentors that have - and continue to - help me find that perfect brew, this blog is my dedicated effort to share the insight that I have gained from all of you. It is my wish that the tea experience will bring fulfillment into the lives of all whom are blessed enough to explore its meaning.

Cha Dao, the way of tea appreciation, is not about whose tea is the best and which tea expert is the true master. It is the cultivation of the mind, spirit and the essence of existence by way of the exploration into the deeper meanings of the brew. To all of you whom chance (and Google) have bought to my blog, I hope you will share my desire to contribute to the appreciation of tea in a manner which is positive and uplifting.

I've had thousands of teas and have had phases where a particular tea was my favorite. Long Jing, Baozhong, Bi Luo Chun, Alishan high mtn tea, ginseng oolong, even dragon pearls - these have all had their turns. But Tieguanyin and Dong Ding are what gave me my first tea memories, and these two have endured as my old stand-bys. While I am happy to collect all tea knowledge, my musings will be rather oolong-centric. The variation is so great within the oolong tea category that multiple lifetimes would not be enough time for me to learn all about these teas.

Again, welcome to my site, stay for a while and relax. There's always time for a good cup of tea. As the first pot of tea moistens your lips and throat, the mundane world slips away around you. Allow yourself to become enchanted by the artistry of the leaves.